Ruifang: Houtong, Jiufen, and Hikes

Ruifang, in the northeast corner of New Taipei, was once a mining and fishing district. Now, with a cat village (Houtong), scenic hikes (Bitou Cape and Jinguashih), and gorgeous old streets (Jiufen), it bustles with locals and tourists alike. Make your way here on a weekday to avoid too many people.

Houtong

If you like cats, don’t miss Houtong. Once a mining village, it was taken over by stray cats and is now home to more than 200, most cheerfully adopted by the locals. There are cats to greet you at the train station, to lead you across the walkway to the village, and in the old village residences.

The shops and restaurants here are all cat-focused. Many them are also perched precariously on a cliff, and cannot be torn down, only restored. They are almost all cat cafés or shops selling trinkets with cats on them.

By the train station you can also find Vision Hall, a newly opened museum about the former coal mine.

You can get to Houtong from Taipei via rail.

Niao a • 鳥ㄚ

Vegetarian (not Buddhist) café and restaurant with traditional Taiwanese dishes. They have a cat manager of course. There is a mininum drinks order per person on top of any food ordered.

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Hikes

If you don’t like cats, there’s many scenic hikes with different difficulties around Ruifang. Landslides and rockfalls are common in Taiwan, so research ahead to make sure trails aren’t closed. Also, avoid these hikes if the ground is wet (experience speaking here).

Bitou Cape

The official Bitou Cape trail is a fairly easy hike of one hour with a lot of stairs. It’s a nice escape from the city when the weather is good.

You can get here from Taipei via rail and bus.

Jinguashih

The hikes here are harder, so you’ll need more time for them. There are also Japanese-era buildings, and a Gold Museum dedicated to the mines that gave this area its name.

You can get here from Taipei via rail and bus.

Jiufen

Jiufen is one of the best-preserved old villages in Taiwan; charmingly nestled on a mountainside and teeming with tourists. Its most famous attraction is the narrow and rickety Jiufen Old Street. Just an alley away though, the crowds fall away and give you a better idea of the real Jiufen. Stay till nightfall to watch Jiufen light up with lanterns.

To get to Jiufen, you can walk from Jinguashih, or you can take a direct bus from Houtong, Bitou Cape, or Taipei.

A-Gan-Yi Taro Dumplings • 阿柑姨芋圓

At the end of the Old Street, near the mountaintop. The taro dumplings are excellent. Grab a window seat for a view of the inlet below.

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A-Mei Tea House • 阿妹茶樓

Jiufen’s best-known landmark. Halfway up the Old Street, it leans heavily into being an inspiration for Spirited Away.

A-Mei serves traditional Taiwanese dishes and desserts. You may have to wait a little bit for a seat.

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樹窟奇木樓

Away from the hustle and bustle of the Old Street, this teahouse focuses on Jiufen’s history as a mining town.

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