Ximending’s Old Haunts
Ximending, at the north edge of historic Wanhua, is known as the Shibuya of Taipei. Step out of Ximen MRT Station, and you are dazzled by flash mobs and pop-up concerts, kitschy cafés and makeup stores.
Decades ago, however, it was the post-war city centre: restaurants, food hawkers, and general stores. Many of these stores still survive among the historic temples and buildings of the neighbourhood.
Attractions
Bopiliao Historic Block • 剝皮寮老街
Lane 173, Kangding Rd • 台北市萬華區康定路173巷A block of Qing-era buildings nestled behind a century-old elementary school and once part of the school grounds. There isn’t too much to do here, but if you like old buildings or posing for photos in them it’s a neat detour.
Lungshan Temple • 龍山寺
211, Guangzhou St • 台北市萬華區廣州街211號This is the first temple I think of when someone mentions temples in Taipei. Built in 1738, it’s a great example of Fujian architecture. Do not make the mistake of coming here during the Lunar New Year unless you love to be squished.
There’s a street market off the plaza in front of the temple if you get hungry or need some paper money.
Nishi Honganji Square • 西本願寺廣場
174 to 176, Zhonghua Rd Sec 1 • 台北市萬華區中華路一段174～176號Taipei’s scaled-down replica of Kyoto’s Nishi Honganji temple, finished in 1912 by Shin Buddhist monks. The temple complex later served as public housing before being mostly destroyed in a fire in 1975. A few buildings remain, including the distinctive belltower.
The square also houses:
- Ribansyo teahouse • 八拾捌茶 (Facebook, allows smartphone photography only)
- Taipei City Archives • 台北市立文獻館 (open weekdays 9–5)
The Red House • 紅樓劇場
10 Chengdu Rd • 台北市萬華區成都路10號This historic building is right by Ximen MRT Station. Built in 1908, it’s been a movie theatre for most of its existence. It’s now also a major spot for Pride events. There’s a history exhibit and a café in the courtyard.
Shops
Lautianlu • 老天祿
56, Chengdu Rd • 台北市萬華區成都路56號Founded in 1949 and known for its Shanghai-style braised duck tongue & wings. I’m a fan of their pastries, like their mung bean gao. Beloved by Andy Lau.
Snacks
Ay-Chung Flour-Rice Noodle • 阿宗麵線
8-1, Emei St • 台北市萬華區峨嵋街8之1號Founded 1975 and serves one thing: mi-sua. Get yours with oyster — Taiwanese oysters are small and soft — or with pork intestines.
Fong Da Coffee • 蜂大咖啡
42, Chengdu Rd • 台北市萬華區成都路42號One of Taipei’s oldest coffee houses, dating from 1956. The window displays are full of jars of coffee beans, cookies, and pastries both Western and Taiwanese.
Simon’s Tempura • 賽門甜不辣
46, Kaifeng St Sec 2 • 台北市萬華區開封街二段46號Simon’s opened in 1958 and serves Taiwanese oden. Unlike Japanese oden, Taiwanese oden comes with sweet and sour sauce to beat the heat.
Snow King • 雪王冰淇淋
2F, 65, Wuchang St Sec 1 • 台北市萬華區武昌街一段65號2樓Founded in 1947, Snow King is an ice cream shop with lots of unique flavours. There’s even some savoury flavours like pork knuckle and sesame oil chicken for people who don’t like sweet flavours. English menus available.
This is the one Ximending shop I insist on bringing visitors to. Unlike many Taipei snack shops, it closes early around 8pm. Plan ahead!
Restaurants
Most of these restaurants do not have English signage.
Chi Chi Kan • 吃吃看小館
32, Guiyang St Sec 2 • 台北市萬華區貴陽街二段32號Decades-old neighbourhood staple for casual Chinese cuisine. Good if you just want to grab a quick bite with a place to sit.
The Duck House • 鴨肉扁
98-2, Zhonghua Rd Sec 1 • 台北市萬華區中華路一段98之2號Despite the name, this store only serves geese. It’s famous for its goose vermicelli.
Shinli Daya • 福州新利大雅餐廳
1F, 70 Kangding Rd • 台北市萬華區康定路70號1樓Serving Fuzhou cuisine, Shinli Daya is the kind of restaurant grandparents frequent on special occasions. They’re distinct for their many dishes with hongzhao (red lees). Their seafood vermicelli is also excellent.
中華餡餅粥
211, Kunming St • 台北市萬華區昆明街211號Northern-style restaurant for people who love dumplings, flatcakes, and all things wheat. They have great Dalian huoshao (extra long potstickers) and xianbing (meat pockets).
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